{"id":1157,"date":"2017-06-25T10:45:38","date_gmt":"2017-06-25T10:45:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.velabas.com\/writing\/?p=1157"},"modified":"2020-05-04T02:45:47","modified_gmt":"2020-05-04T02:45:47","slug":"love-affair-with-aji-de-gallina-lima-peru-where-to-find-magdalena","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.velabas.com\/writing\/food\/love-affair-with-aji-de-gallina-lima-peru-where-to-find-magdalena\/","title":{"rendered":"A love affair with Aji de Gallina in Lima, Peru; and, where to find Paula’s in Mercado de Magdalena"},"content":{"rendered":"

Meeting a Peruvian for the first time implies conversation on food. This is more likely with Peruvians than other nationalities. Whether they hail from Lima, Tumbes, Iquitos or Huancayo, Peruvians everywhere eagerly revert to the default theme of national cuisine, and they do so with unveiled intimation of pride. Anyone familiar with Peru understands the international clout their ceviche enjoys (I wrote a post about a great place to eat ceviche in Lima<\/a>); but their culinary palette is broad and a conversation limited to ceviche is probably cliche. You might hear about tacacho<\/em> or tallarines verdes; pachamanca<\/em> or picarones; choclo con queso, chanco al cilindro, seco de res;<\/em> they will talk about pisco<\/em> and chilcanos<\/em>, chicha morada<\/em> and chicharron con camote<\/em>. For committed travelers anxious for Peruvian savvy, understanding food in this country is as critical as speaking the language. In a way, it is the language.<\/p>\n

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A look at what constitutes Aji de Gallina<\/em><\/h2>\n

Aji de Gallina<\/strong> is a serious part of Peru’s gastronomic expression. It is simple to prepare, but yields a deceivingly complex taste that stays with you long after you’ve washed it down with chicha morada<\/em> or emoliente<\/em>. Aji de gallina<\/em> is creamy, and mirrors the color of Hollandais sauce. Perhaps I am biased–I grew up eating Eggs Benedict–but even so, this is something else. Aji de gallina<\/em> strikes a balance between sweet and sour. Cumin and turmeric complement the main ingredient,\u00a0aji amarillo,<\/em> which together build the dish’s piquancy. Boiled chicken shredded by hand into thin strands allows it to soak up more flavor, and renders the meal easy to eat with a rice accompaniment. I found this official Peruvian Aji de Gallina recipe<\/a>, if you’re interested in cooking it yourself.<\/p>\n

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High end or low end?<\/h2>\n

It’s impossible to know which aji de gallina<\/strong> is the best in Lima. But I know where I go to get my fill, and it’s not an opulent restaurant in Miraflores or San Isidro. It’s a small market stand in Magdalena del Mar. I couldn’t tell you the name of the place; I’ve never bothered to ask. It’s a kiosk tucked away in the belly of the district’s central market. Here’s a map:<\/p>\n